How to Backpack the Golden Lakes Loop in Washington

The Golden Lakes Loop is a 20-mile backpacking circuit through the Chelan-Sawtooth Wilderness that connects three spectacular alpine lakes surrounded by some of Washington’s densest golden larch forests. This challenging but accessible loop offers a quieter alternative to the permit-lottery Enchantments while delivering equally spectacular fall colors and high-alpine scenery.

What makes this loop special? You get to camp beside two of the most beautiful alpine lakes in Washington—Eagle Lake and Cooney Lake—while hiking through endless larch meadows that glow gold for 2-3 weeks each fall. Unlike the Enchantments, you don’t need to win a permit lottery. It’s the perfect middle ground for experienced day hikers ready to try their first challenging backpacking trip.

The catch? It’s a 4.5+ hour drive from Seattle.

Why the Golden Lakes Loop Should Be on Your Bucket List

For the Larches: This loop takes you through some of the most dense larch forests in Washington. In early October, entire mountainsides glow gold, and you’ll camp right in the middle of it all. The larch density here rivals the Enchantments without the permit.

For the Lakes: Eagle Lake’s turquoise water surrounded by granite cliffs and golden trees is legitimately stunning. Cooney Lake at sunrise, with mist rising off the water and larches reflecting in the surface, is the kind of scene that makes you understand why people become obsessed with backpacking.

For the Solitude: Yes, it’s getting more popular, but it’s still way less crowded than Washington’s “famous” hikes.

Planning Your Golden Lakes Loop Adventure

Best Time to Visit

July-August: Peak wildflower season with reliable weather, but also peak mosquito season (July).

Late September-Early October: This is larch season and the absolute best time to experience this loop. The golden trees are incredible, nights are crisp but manageable, and bugs are mostly gone. Weather can be more unpredictable with potential for early snow.

October: Late-season hiking with spectacular colors but increasing weather risks. Check conditions carefully and be prepared for winter weather.

Weather and Conditions

October weather in the high country can swing from shirt-sleeve hiking weather to winter storm conditions within hours. The key is being prepared for anything.

Pack for Four Seasons: Even on warm, sunny days, temperatures can drop into the 20s at night. Snow is possible any time after mid-September, especially at higher elevations around Angel’s Staircase.

Check Current Conditions: Monitor recent trip reports on Washington Trails Association and AllTrails. Other hikers’ recent photos and conditions reports are your best resource for timing.

Getting There: Trailhead Options

You have two main starting points, and your choice can affect experience:

Crater Creek Trailhead: Closer to Eagle Lake, making counterclockwise direction more appealing. Better road access.

Foggy Dew Ridge Trailhead: More scenic approach if going clockwise, but adds complexity to logistics.

Pro Tip: If you have two cars or can arrange a shuttle, starting at Crater Creek and ending at Foggy Dew Ridge eliminates the least interesting section of trail and makes for a more varied experience.

Clockwise vs. Counterclockwise: Which Route to Choose

This was the biggest question during my trip planning, and after experiencing both perspectives, I have a clear recommendation. After hiking it clockwise, I’d definitely go counterclockwise if I did it again.

Counterclockwise (Recommended)

Start: Crater Creek → Eagle Lake → Boiling Lake → Cooney Lake → Back to Crater Creek

Why It’s Better:

• Shorter, easier first day to Eagle Lake builds confidence
• Scenery builds naturally as you progress
• The climb to Angel’s Staircase feels more gradual
• You experience hiking down facing Cooney Lake which is spectacular

The Reality: Your first day is manageable (6-7 miles to Eagle Lake), and the big views and challenging terrain come after you’ve settled into the rhythm of backpacking. I found the hike from Cooney Lake back to Crater Lake trailhead long and somewhat boring.

Clockwise (More Challenging)

Start: Crater Creek → Cooney Lake → Boiling Lake → Eagle Lake → Back to Crater Creek

Why I’d Skip It Next Time:

• Long, somewhat monotonous first day to Cooney Lake
• Steeper approach to Angel’s Staircase
• The stretch to Cooney Lake includes shared trail with dirt bikes which sets a weird tone for the beginning

When It Works: If you start from Foggy Dew Ridge trailhead, clockwise makes more sense because the approach is more scenic.

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Suggested Itinerary for the Golden Lakes Loop

Day 1: Crater Creek Trailhead → Eagle Lake (6-7 miles)

The trail starts with a steady climb through forest—nothing dramatic, just consistent uphill that gets your legs warmed up. For the first several miles, you’re mostly hiking through dense forest without major views, but around mile 5, the scenery starts opening up with increasingly impressive mountain views and your first real larch sightings. (there are peek a boo views earlier)

The approach to Eagle Lake is where this hike gets real. You’ll crest a rise and suddenly see this incredible turquoise lake nestled in a granite cirque, surrounded by golden larches. It’s the kind of moment that makes all the uphill worth it.

What to Expect:

• Steady climb but not to steep
• Water available at lake for filtering
• Multiple camping options with different vibes

Eagle Lake Camping: Upper Eagle Lake has the best sites—more private, better views, and tucked among trees or perched on rock benches. Lower Eagle Lake is further from the trail and less scenic. Plan to arrive with enough daylight to choose your spot and set up properly.

Pro Tip: Walk to both ends of the lake before choosing your campsite. The upper end has thick larch forests perfect for photography, while different spots offer better sunrise or sunset views.

Day 2: Eagle Lake → Boiling Lake → Cooney Lake (8-9 miles)

This is the big day—the most elevation gain, the highest point of the trip, and the most spectacular scenery. You’ll climb toward Angel’s Staircase with increasingly dramatic views of the Sawtooth Range.

Boiling Lake (despite the name, it’s actually quite cold) sits in this surreal turquoise basin that looks almost tropical against the granite and larches. It’s a perfect lunch spot and photo opportunity.

The climb to Angel’s Staircase is the crux of the whole trip—about 1,200 feet of elevation gain over 2 miles. It’s a real climb, but the views from the top are incredible. On clear days, you can see deep into the Cascades and Sawtooth backcountry.

The descent to Cooney Lake offers your first views of the basin below, with the lake sparkling in the distance and larch-covered ridges all around. Its UNREAL.

What to Expect:

• Biggest elevation day of the trip
• Most spectacular scenery
• Long day that requires pacing yourself
• Angel’s Staircase (8,000 feet) is the high point

Cooney Lake Camping: More campsites than Eagle Lake, but they vary significantly in quality. The sites near the outlet are convenient but can feel busy. Walk toward the far end of the lake for quieter spots with better larch views and sunrise potential.

Day 3: Cooney Lake → Crater Creek Trailhead (6-7 miles)

Wake up early for sunrise at Cooney Lake—the morning light on the larches and lake reflections is absolutely magical. Even if you’re not normally a sunrise person, set that alarm. The scene transforms as the light hits the basin.

The hike out is mostly downhill, but don’t underestimate it. Your legs will be tired from two days of mountain hiking, and the descent can be tough on knees and feet. The trail eventually joins a wider path that’s shared with mountain bikers and dirt bikes, which can detract from the wilderness feel.

What to Expect:

6-7 miles that can feel longer when you’re tired

Mostly downhill but harder on legs than expected

Shared trail with bikes and motorcycles for final section

Optional Add-On: Sunrise Lake

If you have an extra day and want more adventure, Sunrise Lake makes an excellent side trip from the Angel’s Staircase area. It’s about 3 miles round trip with 700 feet of elevation gain to reach this more remote basin.

I’ve done this as a day hike on another trip, and even in terrible weather it was worth it. On a clear day with good conditions, camping here would be incredible—more solitude and equally spectacular larches.

Where to Camp: Lake-by-Lake Guide

Eagle Lake

Best For: First-time visitors, photographers, those wanting variety

Campsites: 6-10 sites split between upper and lower lake Choose Upper Lake If: You want privacy, better views, and quieter camping.

Water: Reliable lake water, perfect for filtering Special Features: Dense larch forests at both ends of the lake, multiple photo opportunities

Boiling Lake

Best For: Day-use lunch stops Limited camping, and most people use this as a rest stop rather than overnight destination. The setting is beautiful but Eagle and Cooney felt better to camp by for me but it’s of course a personal preference.

Cooney Lake

Best For: Sunrise enthusiasts, those wanting the “classic” Golden Lakes experience

Campsites: 8-12 sites with varying quality Best Sites: Far end of the lake for sunrise views and larch reflections Avoid: Sites right at the outlet (busy and less scenic)

Water: Reliable lake water Special Features: Best sunrise views in the entire loop, classic larch-and-lake photography

For planning more larch hikes this autumn – whether easier day hikes or more remote backpacking adventures – make sure to check out my Best Golden Larch Hikes in Washington where I break down classic trails, quieter alternatives, and wish-list routes so you can mix & match based on how much time you have, how far you want to drive, and how much solitude you want.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How Hard is the Golden Lakes Loop?

This is a challenging backpacking trip that requires good fitness and some backpacking experience. It’s not technical (no scrambling or rope work), but the elevation gain, distance, and remote location make it unsuitable for beginners. If you can comfortably day hike 10+ miles with elevation gain and have done at least a few overnight backpacking trips, you can handle this loop.

Do You Need Permits for the Golden Lakes Loop?

No lottery permits required! Just a Northwest Forest Pass for parking ($30/year or $5/day). This is one of the major advantages over the Enchantments—you can plan this trip without gambling on permit lotteries.

When is the Best Time for Larches on the Golden Lakes Loop?

Late September through mid-October, with the first two weeks of October typically being peak. This varies year to year based on weather, so check recent trip reports and photos from other hikers. Higher elevations peak first, so Angel’s Staircase area will turn before the lower lake basins.

Can Beginners Do the Golden Lakes Loop?

No. This loop requires backpacking experience, good fitness, and wilderness navigation skills. If you’re new to backpacking, start with shorter, less remote trips closer to help. There are plenty of excellent 1-2 night beginner backpacking options in Washington that will prepare you for adventures like this.

How Long Does the Golden Lakes Loop Take?

Most people do it in 3 days/2 nights, which is what I recommend. You could rush it in 2 days, but you’d miss a lot of the experience. Adding Sunrise Lake or taking more time to explore extends it to 4-5 days.

What’s the Water Situation?

All three main lakes provide reliable water for filtering. There are also seasonal streams along the route, but lakes are your guaranteed water sources. Always carry a reliable filtration system—the water looks pristine but needs treatment like any backcountry water source.

How Crowded Does It Get?

Much less crowded than famous day hikes like Maple Pass, but definitely busier than it was 5 years ago. Expect to see other backpackers, especially on weekends during peak larch season. You’ll still find solitude, especially if you camp at less obvious sites.

What If the Weather Turns Bad?

Have an exit strategy. The loop has a few bailout options, but they all require hiking back to trailheads—there are no quick escapes. Monitor weather forecasts carefully and be prepared to change plans if conditions deteriorate.

Strategic Planning for Success

Timing Your Trip for Peak Conditions

Don’t plan this trip for a specific date—plan for a 2-3 week window when conditions are likely to be good. Monitor weather forecasts, recent trip reports, and snow conditions. Be flexible with your dates and ready to move your trip earlier or later based on conditions.

Managing Expectations

This isn’t an easy trip disguised as a moderate one. It’s genuinely challenging and requires self-sufficiency in remote terrain. But if you’re prepared for the reality, it’s also incredibly rewarding. The combination of spectacular scenery, manageable crowds, and no permit requirements makes it one of Washington’s best backpacking experiences.

Final Thoughts: Is the Golden Lakes Loop Worth It?

Absolutely. This loop combines the best of Washington backpacking—spectacular alpine lakes, incredible fall colors, challenging but achievable terrain, and the satisfaction of completing a real mountain adventure. It’s become one of my favorite fall backpacking trips, offering the perfect balance between accessibility and wilderness experience.

If you’re ready to step up from day hiking to serious backpacking, or if you’re looking for an alternative to permit-dependent destinations like the Enchantments, the Golden Lakes Loop delivers everything you want from a high-country adventure. Just be honest about your fitness and experience level, plan carefully, and prepare for an incredible experience.

The larches, the lakes, the views from Angel’s Staircase—it all comes together into one of those trips that reminds you why you love being in the mountains. Pack smart, hike safe, and get ready for some serious mountain magic.

If you’re planning your fall backpacking season, you might also enjoy:

• 🍂 Best Golden Larch Hikes in Washington
• 🎒 Backpacking with Kids: A Survival Guide for Parents Who Love the Trail
• 🌲 Easy Day Hikes Near Seattle

No matter which adventure you choose, fall in the Cascades and Sawtooths is unforgettable—just be ready for crisp nights, golden larches, and plenty of adventure!