How to Backpack the Golden Lakes Loop in Washington

Tucked into the Chelan-Sawtooth Wilderness, the Golden Lakes Loop is a quieter alternative to the Enchantments and Maple Pass—but no less spectacular. This high-country circuit strings together alpine basins, golden larches, and wide-open ridgelines, all with fewer crowds than Washington’s “big name” fall hikes. Although, full disclosure, it seems to get more and more popular every year.

But perhaps what deters the crowds is the proximity to Seattle. But if you do make the drive, you’ll camp beside two of the most beautiful alpine lakes in the state—Eagle Lake and Cooney Lake.

If you’re on the hunt for golden larches and autumn color, you might have already seen them in my Ultimate Guide to Washington Fall Hikes (Larch Trails + Autumn Colors). I always include the Golden Lakes Loop in that roundup, because it delivers some of the most dense larch stands and least-crowded vaulted basins you can find in the state.

Although, full disclosure, it seems to get more and more popular every year.

Which direction should I hike this loop?

Before I set out on this loop, I kept coming across strong opinions about whether to hike it clockwise or counterclockwise. I chose clockwise, but if I could do it again, I’d reverse the direction and spend my first night at Eagle Lakes.

In a perfect world with two cars, I’d start at the Crater Creek Trailhead and finish down the road on the Foggy Dew Ridge Trail—or even the Foggy Dew Creek Trail. (I’ve done the latter before to reach Surprise Lake.) Personally, I found the stretch from Cooney Lake back to Crater Creek Trailhead long, a bit monotonous, and—on the Sunday I hiked it—busy with dirt bikes. That section is shared by hikers, mountain bikers, and motorbikes, so it can feel less peaceful than the rest of the loop.

Counterclockwise

Going counterclockwise, you reach Eagle Lake first, which makes for a shorter and easier night-one camp. The climb up to Angel’s Staircase feels more gradual in this direction. The scenery builds naturally as you move from Eagle to Boiling to Cooney before topping out. The downside is the steep descent from Cooney back to the Crater Creek Trailhead. If you only spend one night at Cooney, that middle day can feel long. However, if you end your trip on the Foggy Dew Ridge Trail —the descent is more scenic and varied.

If I did this again, this is the way I would do it spending the first night at Upper Eagle Lakes.

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Clockwise

Hiking the Golden Lakes Loop clockwise gets you into the alpine and larch meadows sooner, so the views come quickly. If you’re aiming for Cooney Lake as your first camp, that opening day from Crater Creek can feel long. And a bit monotonous until you finally drop into the basin. The climb up to Angel’s Staircase from this side is also steeper and less forgiving, so expect a tougher push.

However, if you start from the Foggy Dew Ridge Trailhead, it’s a different story—this approach offers more variety and makes the clockwise direction feel less like a slog.

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Suggested Itinerary for the Golden Lakes Loop

Day 1: Trailhead → Upper Eagle Lake (~6–7 miles)

Start at the Crater Creek trailhead and head to Eagle Lakes. The trail climbs steadily through forest before opening into larch-filled meadows with expansive views of the mountains as you approach Upper Eagle Lake. From the trail you can look down on Lower Eagle Lake. (I admired it from above and didn’t hike down to it)

Upper Eagle makes a perfect first-night camp: a gorgeous lake basin ringed by rocky cliffs dotted with larches, with clear water for filtering and plenty of space to spread out. If you go to either end of the lake there are thick larch forests to wander through. (Incredible photo opportunities)

🏕️ Eagle Lake Campsites

I’d estimate there are around 6–10 campsites at Eagle Lake, with a mix of options near both the lower and upper basins.

• Upper Eagle Lake has the best sites for views and privacy—tucked into trees or perched on rock benches overlooking the water.
• Lower Eagle Lake has a couple of flat tent spots closer to the trail, but they’re less scenic and more exposed.

💡 Pro tip: Upper Eagle is the quieter choice. Even on weekends, it doesn’t see as much pressure as Cooney.

Day 2: Eagle Lake → Boiling Lake → Cooney Lake (~8–9 miles)

From Eagle, continue up toward Angel’s Staircase, where you’ll get your first really big sweeping views of the Sawtooths. Descend into the Boiling Lake basin—despite the name, it’s a cool alpine lake with surreal turquoise water and a great spot for a long lunch break. I loved the views from above Boiling Lake. After you leave Boiling Lake you wander through the most beautiful larch filled meadows before you start the climb towards Angel’s Staircase.

From Boiling Lake, the trail climbs roughly 1,200 feet over 2 miles to the crest of Angel’s Staircase (8,000 feet), the high point of the loop. From the top, you’ll enjoy panoramic views of the Chelan–Sawtooth backcountry and can optionally extend your trip by dropping down the spur trail to Sunrise Lake—adding a night if you’d like more time in the high country. Otherwise, continue on the main route as it descends toward Cooney Lake. The approach offers sweeping views of the basin below, with Cooney sparkling in the distance and larch-covered ridges rising all around.

🏕️ Cooney Lake Campsites

I’d estimate there are about 8–12 established campsites around Cooney Lake, mostly clustered near the outlet and along the eastern shoreline.

The sites closest to the outlet are flat and convenient, with easy access to water, but they can feel a bit busy since most hikers stop here.

Farther along the lake, especially toward the back, you’ll find quieter spots tucked among trees and boulders. These offer better views of the larches and sunrise lighting up the basin.

💡 Pro tip: If you want the best morning views, aim for a campsite at the far end of the lake—the reflections and golden light on the larches are incredible.

Day 3: Cooney Lake → Trailhead (~6–7 miles)

Wake up early to catch the morning reflections on Cooney Lake. If you’re feeling adventurous (and don’t mind the early alarm), hike above the lake for sunrise—it’s equally stunning at sunset. If you’d rather stay closer to camp, the far end of Cooney comes alive as the first light hits, setting the larches aglow.

Since I camped near the back of the lake, I got to watch the scene transform over breakfast. 10/10 would recommend.

🌄 Sunrise Lake (Optional Add-On)

If you have an extra day, Sunrise Lake makes a rewarding side trip from the Golden Lakes Loop. From the Angel’s Staircase area, it’s about 3 miles round trip with roughly 700 feet of elevation gain to reach the basin. The lake itself is tucked beneath open ridgelines and surrounded by larches, offering a quieter, more remote feel compared to Cooney or Eagle.

I ended up doing this as a day hike on another trip when the wind was blowing sideways—but on a calm, clear evening, camping here would be nothing short of magical.

💡 Pro tip: Sunrise Lake is a great way to stretch the loop into a more leisurely 4–5 day adventure while escaping the crowds.

For planning more larch hikes this autumn – whether easier day hikes or more remote backpacking adventures – make sure to check out my Best Golden Larch Hikes in Washington where I break down classic trails, quieter alternatives, and wish-list routes so you can mix & match based on how much time you have, how far you want to drive, and how much solitude you want.

Quick Stats + Logistics: Golden Lakes Loop

• Distance: 19-22 miles round trip (depending on side trips + starting trailhead)
• Elevation Gain: ~5,000 feet
• Trailheads:
  • Crater Creek Trailhead (closer to Eagle Lake)
• Best Season: Mid-July through early October
  • July–August: wildflowers, mosquitoes
  • 🍂 Late September–early October: peak larch color, colder nights, chance of early snow
• Permits:
  • Northwest Forest Pass required for parking
  • No lottery permit needed (unlike the Enchantments!)
• Camping Spots: Eagle Lake, Boiling Lake, Cooney Lake
• Water: Reliable at all three lakes + seasonal streams (carry a filter)
• Difficulty: Challenging — steady climbs, remote terrain, and unpredictable fall conditions
• Link to AllTrails

Note: This loop is in a remote part of the Chelan-Sawtooth Wilderness. Expect minimal cell service, limited trail signage, and fluctuating weather—especially in the fall. Bring a paper map, GPS, and be prepared for self-sufficiency.

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Final Thoughts

The Golden Lakes Loop is one of those rare Washington backpacking trips that blends dramatic alpine scenery with relative solitude. Between Eagle’s turquoise basins, the wide-open ridgelines of Angel’s Staircase, and the golden glow of Cooney at sunrise, it packs all the magic of fall hiking into one loop. Whether you tackle it clockwise or counterclockwise, or extend your adventure with side trips to Sunrise or Surprise Lakes, this trail is a MUST for any larch lover.

If you’re planning your fall backpacking season, you might also enjoy:

• 🍂 Best Golden Larch Hikes in Washington
• 🎒 Backpacking with Kids: A Survival Guide for Parents Who Love the Trail
• 🌲 Easy Day Hikes Near Seattle

No matter which adventure you choose, fall in the Cascades and Sawtooths is unforgettable—just be ready for crisp nights, golden larches, and plenty of adventure!